Improvement in methods and apparatus for laying out coat-patterns



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METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR LAYINGOUT-COAT PATTERNS.- No.179,4:6. "Patented June 20,1876.

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METHOD AND APPARATUS'FQR LAYING OUT com PATTERNS. No.1'79.046.- Patented June 20,1876.

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J. H. N I CH O L S. METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR. LAYING OUT COAT PATTERNS.

No. 179,046. Patented June 20, 1876.

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J. H. NICHOLS. I I METHOD AND APPARATUS FOR LAYING OUT COAT PATTERNS.

NESSES ATTORNEYS Nv PETERS, PNDTKHJTflOGRAPMER, WASHINGfON. (1C4 fNITED STATES PATENT QFFTE.

JAMES NICHOLS, on BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

IMPROVEMENT IN METHODS AND APPARATUS FORLAYING OUT COAT-PATTERNS.

Specification forming part of Letters Patent No. 179,046, dated June 20, 1876; application filed March 25, m6.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that 1, JAMES H. NroHoLs, of Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State of Massachusetts, have invented a new and valuable Improvement in Tailors Squares and Diagrams; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact description of the construction and operation of the same, reference being had to the annexed drawings, making a part of this specification, and to the letters and figures of reference marked thereon.

Figure 1 of the drawings is a representation of front elevation of my tailors square, and

Fig. 2 is an edge view of the same. Fig. 3 is a transverse vertical section of, my square, and Fig. 4 is detachable strip for the same. Figs. 5, 6, and 7 are diagrams for a frock-coat; and Figs. 8 and 9 are diagrams for a sackcoat. r V

This invention has relation to a new and improved method or system of laying out coats for cutting, whereby thedrafting of the different sizes can be executed with great facility; at the same time greater accuracy is obtained in measurements and fitting, as will be hereinafter explained.

In the annexed drawings, Figs. 1, 2, and 3, I have represented a tailors square having the two limbs a and b at rightangles to each other, marked off in inches and fractions of inches, in the usual wellknown manner, designating a scale-strip, which is removable, and held in place by means of spring-fingers d. I employ a number of these scale-strips, differently graduated, according to the different sizes of coats to be cut, and I prefer to have the scale-strips of one equal length, so that any one of them will extend from the shoulders c to the edge of the limb a of the square, as shown in the drawing, Figs. 1, 2, and

The scale-strips represent, by certain marks on them, different sizes of coats, varying by breast-measure from twenty-six inches to fortyeight inches. For example, the scale-strip shown in Fig. 1 represents the largest breastmeasure, and is numbered 48 on one side, and graduated accordingly. The figure 2 mark on the scale-strip represents one-fourth of the actual breast-measure when coats are out sixths, sevenths, eighths,tenths, and so on l to sixty-fourths.

The figure-marks on the scale-strips which are below the figure 2, indicating breast-measure, represent three sizes or graduations nec essary to obtain the requisite depth and width of the garment. This method of graduating the scale-strip, so far as described, applies to all of the strips alike. For a 48 scale-strip the variations in sizes will be about one inch and an eighth. For a 26 scale the sizes will represent about a half-inch.

It is obvious that these sizes will vary on the different scales according to the size of the coat to be out.

The measure is taken with a tape-line in the usual well-known manner. Having taken the measure, I select a scale-strip corresponding to the breast-measure, which strip is fixed in the square, as I have above described. I then proceed to draft as follows, reference being had to the annexed diagrams, numbered Figs. 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9.

Figs. 5, 6, and 7 are diagrams for a frockcoat for the back. From 1 to 2 is and 3 sizes; from 1 to 3, natural waist; from 1 to 4, full length of waist; from 4 to 5, between 8th and 10th from 3 to 6, between 8th and 10th,

width of back. From 2 to 7 is and 2 to 14 is less of the breast-measure. Place square at 1, line 0, ten inches at 1, 11 inches at P, and get lines A and H; l to 12, between 7th and 8th. 9 to 10 is 5 10.to 11 is 3 9 to 8 is 12 to 13 is of the breast-measure. Cut out back, and reverse lineAand base to draft the fore part. Square base and center line. 3 to 2 is g. 2 to-l is 3 to 10 is -10 to 11 is 10 to 21, less 5 11 to 22 is 3 to 121s and 3 sizes. 12 t0'13 is less g. 13 to 14 is Place line A on reverse side of back on line A of fore part, to form shoulder. 15 to 16'is 17 to 18 is 5- Place square at line B, 4% inches at 16, 6 inches at 2,.and form neck. 3 to 19 is length of back from 2 to 4. 19 to 20 is Place square at 1% inches, andangleby 11, and

back on line K, putting W of Fig. 5 at W,

Fig. 6, and form side body, as represented on draft. 6 t 7 is 8 to 9 is For the sleeve: From 1 to 2 is From 1 to 3 is 1-. From 2 to 5 is From 3 to 7 is], and 3 sizes. From 13 to 14 1s From 8 to9 is From 8 to is and 3 sizes. From 2 to 6 is Place square at 1; inches, at 10 with 8 inches. 12 on line A, and get line B and length of sleeve.

Figs. 8 and 9 are diagrams for a sack-coat. For the back, draw line C. From 11 to 10 is in atwaist. From 1 to 12 is g and 3 sizes. Square base and waist lines by line I), also line 1 to 2; 1 to 2, between 7th and 8th. 2 to 3 is 12 to 6 is half, less Place 10 on square at 1, l1 atG, and get line A.

' More square from 2 to 5 to get line F. 4 to Cut out back and re- 14 is 5 to 4 is verse lines A, base and waist. 10 to 7 is 6 inches. 9 to 8 is 6 inches, for width of back.

For the fore part, draw a line, A, on the cloth; place point of square at 1; carry out with the left hand inches at line H to get base-line.

Fromlto2is%. 2to3is%. 3t05 isand two sizes. 3 to 6 is 6 t0 7 is 3 to 8 is %and 3 sizes. 8 to 9 is less 9 to 10 is 6 to 4. is a, less 7 to 11 is Square line D by base line up and down. Place back on line D, W at W, and form side body. 12 to 13 is 14 to 15 is 1 to 16 is length of back, from base-line to 16. 16 to 17 is Put reverse line A of back on line A of fore part, and form shoulder. 18 to 19 is Put 4% inches on square at 19 and .6 inches at 2, and form neck; mark length of waist on line D. Put 8 on square at L on line D; carry in 1 and 1% inch for spring-skirt. 20 to 21 is What I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

, The method herein described of laying out coats for cutting, by. means of a" recessed square provided with interchangeable scalestrips, graduated in the manner as described.

In testimony that I claim the above I have hereunto subscribed my name in the presence of two witnesses.

1 JAMES H. NICHOLS. Witnesses:

JOHN F. AGKER,J1.,

O. '11. MOEWEN. 

